Goisot Bourgogne Aligote 2018
Outstanding White Burgundy – Aligote grape genetically linked to Chardonnay
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“No one but no one delivers more quality for the price than Goisot. The quality is flat out amazing, particularly given the modest appellations with which he works.” Allen Meadows, Burghound.com
“This is certainly one of the greatest Yonne estates…The estate is totally biodynamic and makes wines of remarkable purity and concentration … Simply stunning.” Bettane and Desseauve’s Guide to the Wines of France
As the quotes above make clear, this pioneering biodynamic Yonne domaine (the same department of Burgundy which includes Chablis) produces fabulous, terroir-rich Burgundies, and surely this region’s greatest values (even with the recent price rises forced on the Domaine by the crippling yields). For a Domaine that works in an area that most wine lovers have never heard of, Goisot has earned an unprecedented reputation in France. The late Anne-Claude Leflaive once described Goisot as a “one of the super stars of French winemaking”.
How has such a small, quiet, out-of-the-way grower broken into the Burgundy elite? In short, they farm some of northern Burgundy’s purest limestone vineyards, possess a large proportion of old vines, and cut no corners in their vineyard work and élevage. In fact, the Goisot’s biodynamic work in the vineyard is at a standard that knows few equals (anywhere) and certainly places the Domaine at the very top of the greater Chablis area. Once again there is zero mystery as to where the wine quality derives: quality terroir and zero compromises = top notch, authentic wines.
Goisot’s old-vine Aligoté is drawn from parcels of 40- and 92-year-old vines, planted on the high, cool slopes of St Bris. Aligoté is notorious for requiring old vines and the right soils to produce wines of high quality, and Goisot’s holdings—in the lieux-dits of Croix Rougeot, Côte de Coutance and Côte de la Canne—nail the brief. The soils are made up of ancient, limestone-rich clays, littered with fossilised oyster shells (i.e. limestone). Goisot’s biodynamic management and commitment to harvesting ripe fruit results in a far more textured, pulpy and sexy wine than you might normally associate with this variety. This is particularly the case in 2018. As always, this wine was fermented with native yeasts and raised entirely in tank. The 2018 is deliciously layered white Burgundy packed with ripe pear, fresh almond and iodine-flecked fruit and topped off by a juicy mineral finish. Bargain.
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