François Lamarche Grand Cru Clos de Vougeot 2017
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“A domaine that continues to make great strides under the current generation.” The World of Fine Wine, Issue 47
“Lamarche is now a top domaine, with wines which express themselves through their subtlety rather than their power. Since 1999, and more especially since 2005, the quality has been top-notch. This is now a three star domaine.” Clive Coates MW, My Favourite Burgundies
Domaine François Lamarche are sole owners of La Grande Rue, one of the four grand cru monopoles of Vosne-Romanée (La Tâche, La Romanée and La Romanée Conti are the others). In this day and age, great Burgundy Domaines such as this are a rare find – even more exceptional because the vineyard holdings here are almost entirely made up of Grand Cru and Premier Cru parcels in Vosne/Echézeaux. Under the current generation – Nicole and Nathalie Lamarche – quality at this Domaine has skyrocketed and this is now one of the very finest sources of fragrant, supple and richly-fruited Vosne.
It’s safe to say Nicole Lamarche isn’t really concerned about ruffling a few feathers. In the ultra-conservative village of Vosne-Romanée Lamarche’s sense of fashion already has her standing out, and she also isn’t afraid to speak her mind. Perhaps this individuality is one reason Nicole Lamarche has been able to so rapidly lead her family’s Domaine back up the quality hierarchy.
This Domaine has made huge strides over the last decade largely in thanks to the hard work and passion of Nicole Lamarche. Today the quality is where you would expect it to be for a producer with such a brilliant collection of vineyards — outstanding. And it’s only heading north. In fact, the brilliant 2017s are the finest wines we have tasted from the Domaine so far. They are wonderfully perfumed, pure, intense wines that are big on finesse—something that Nicole Lamarche values extremely highly. They will drink well young (a feature of many top 2017s) but equally, they have the stuffing to age. In fact, they have more stuffing and (admittedly very fine) tannins than we’ve seen before. The top wines will live for decades.
Harvest was between the 7th and 14th September, so very classic, and yields were, on average 40hl/ha (also very classic). The dry conditions meant no disease pressure and the fruit came into the cellars in terrific condition—we were in Burgundy for this harvest and saw this ourselves. Thirty per cent whole-bunch was used for all cuvées, bringing pretty florals and tannins. The wines are very, very exciting and signal the continued revival of this storied grower.
Lamarche holds 1.35-hectares of vineyards in the Clos de Vougeot, situated over three terroirs: one is at the top of the Clos near the Château (actually there are two small parcels in the area known as Montiotes Hautes); another is in the middle tranche on the Vosne side (Petits Maupertuis): and the remaining parcel is lower down near the RN74 (Baudes Basses). All three parcels are picked at the same time. As you might expect, Nicole Lamarche chooses to vinify a finer, prettier expression of the Clos—very Vosne in style.
Vougeot seldom comes with a structure as lacy and as elegant as this. That said, a terroir can’t completely change its spots, and in the context of this producer you will naturally find more power and more mineral, savoury structure when compared to the other wines listed here. Again, in the context of today’s Grand Cru Burgundy pricing, it’s a bargain!
“The standard lightish Lamarche colour, and you have to go looking for the fruit on the nose. Good concentration on the palate however, though with firmer tannins behind. Follows through quite well. Fractionally more muscular than the Echezeaux but not all that obviously Clos de Vougeot in structure.” 92-94 points, Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy
“A background whiff of wood sets off the very fresh aromas of red and dark berry, earth and a hint of leather. The rich, full-bodied and very serious flavors possess solid size and weight along with excellent drive on the powerful and youthfully austere if decidedly linear finish. Like the Les Cras, this is going to require at least some aging to fill out and until that occurs this is going to be more potential than pleasure. With that said, my range implicitly assumes that it will flesh out in time.” 91-94 points, Allen Meadows, Burghound.com, Issue 69
Our Price $429.99 **Extremely Limited**
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